Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
